Aku shaper swaylocks update#
Hi All, Just thought i shlould put up an update on progress of board for and interested diy'ers This was the spackle i used on the board, it seems like it is one of the more popular brands to use on the swaylocks forums. Remember to take lots of photos as ya go! but dont drink too much homebrew as you lam! I think its best for a basic wetlam job to keep the weight down. I think this is most important if you are not using a wetout table where you can control your resin ratios very closely. (or is it vise versa?) I guess the spakle is to reduce the amount of resin being absorbed by the foam. For the final layer put black pigment in ya resin then the a white pigmented filler coat to get the brushed look. Good idea around the fin plug too, but dont bother at the handle. when you drop in the fin blocks of HD use a little glass inside with the bog mix for extra strength. you might have to stack a fey layers on top of each other if its thin but you can get it in up to 25mm thick sheets. Try your local boat builder and ask if they have some off cuts you can pinch. Sounds good Chris! Dont use balsa it is a sponge! Use Divinycell or any PVC foam with a density of 80-100 kg/m3 (80 is best value for money and still light). I have my blank sitting inside the house at the moment and am thinking i will put a homebrew beer heater belt on my epoxy drums to keep them warm in preparation. I want to go for the starboard style brushed carbon look and then airbrush pinlines and graphics over the top. Do you know what kind of foam i should use for the inserts? (i also saw someone on swaylocks talking about using balsa for inserts, i don't know if balsa is water repellant or if it soaks up water) Planning on: glasssing bottom first, innegra and cork in one go then deck - inngra and cork one go then one side carbon other side carbon + thin glass sanding layer then finla remaining glass sanding layer. Seems like a nice hard surface once sanded, i think the surface might still be porous enough for the resin to key into but not as much as uncoated. I am not entirely convinced by the concept either. I just went to the local mitre 10 and picked up the different wall patching products, the red devil was really light, where as stuff like spakfilla was really heavy. Must research on Swaylocks for validation and/or other ideas.Hi Bertie, I used this red devil brand spackle, which was suggested on a couple of sites.
Aku shaper swaylocks how to#
Will have to do some research on how to do this correctly, but I'm thinking of just tracing my Brom fish onto cardboard/masonite and then cutting it out. Slightly thinner than my Brom fish, and one inch shorter.
My first board shall be a twin keel fish. I guess I should focus my energy on things to do before I can shape (even if I did have my blanks in hand). Maybe its time to try a different foam company. Well, weekend's almost over, and my patience is wearing thin. He said he'd email me when he got the estimate sometime over the weekend. I'm getting really impatient now, I submitted this order three weeks ago, and its still not out the door! Grrr. I just told him to substitute the missing blank with something similar.
Not to mention one of the blanks I ordered is out of stock in his warehouse.
Apparently, he's having trouble getting an estimate for the shipping cost on my blanks. Take a look:Ĭalled the guy at KingMac foam and inquired about my blank order. I dunno if its technically correct, but it looks good enough.
Aku shaper swaylocks zip#
Zip ties and tape in various places keeps everything together. On top of the foam I used some rubber cabinet liner material to make the "U"-shaped part that holds the board on its side. I used some leftover foam from an old mattress pad for padding. Finally finished my shaping stands today after slacking off for a few days.
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